-
Trip dates 1.-7. July 2025
1-10. July 2025, with Matterhorn extension
-
SeasonJune-August
-
Duration7 days, 10 days with Matterhorn
-
DifficultyModerate technicality, good fitness
Tour overview
The Spagetti Traverse is sometimes called the “Climbers Haute Route”. Located in the heart of Switzerland surrounding Matterhorn and Zermatt, this peak bagging gets you on top of over ten 4000m summits. Climbing mountains on the border of Switzerland and Italy in the Monte Rosa mountain range gives you the best of both worlds: Swiss mountains and Italian huts where you can enjoy some of the best culinary experiences that the alps have to offer.
On this 7 day climbing tour that starts and ends in Zermatt we will spend 5 days (4 nights) in the mountains and the whole time on glaciated terrain. A new peak every day with new challenges we will encounter glacier travelling on easy terrain, steep snow climbing, rock scrambling, narrow ridges and easy ice climbing.
Climbing some of the most famous peaks in the Monte Rosa range should be on everyone bucket list – a true alpine experience with unforgettable views!
This tour has the option of adding a three day Matterhorn climb to the end of the tour.
Detailed information
Below are details about the tour. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.
For the Spagetti Traverse:
Fitness level: Moderate, comfortable to move 250-300m in elevation per hour over 5-7 hours.
Experience level: Advanced beginner, some prior experience but lacking confidence in the discipline.
For the Matterhorn extension:
Fitness level: Strong, comfortable to move 300-400m in elevation per hour over 8-12 hours.
Experience level: Competent, experienced in the discipline and confident about their skill level.
Group tour (2, 4 or 6 participants)
570.000 kr. per person
820.000 kr. per person with Matterhorn extension
Guest to guide ratio is 2:1 and minimum bookings per guide is two participants.
Guest to guide ratio for Matterhorn extension is 1:1
Price estimate for expenses not included in the tour:
- Train to and form Zurich airport: 40.000 kr.
- Lifts in Zermatt: 20.000kr
- Spending in huts:30-50 EUR per day depending on consumption
- Hotel for two nights in Zermatt: Variable options from hostels to fine hotels
- Air travel to and from Zurich: 60-80.000 kr.
Preparation meeting in Iceland:
Few weeks before departure, we will have a preparation meeting with the group. It is a great opportunity to ask any questions that might have come up, get good advice regarding equipment and get familiar with your travel buddies.
Day 1: Travel to Zermatt
Travel day. The best way to get to Zurich via direct flight from Iceland with Icelandair. From Zurich airport we will take the train to Zermatt. The train ride will take about 3.5 hours and when in Zermatt we get settled in our hotel. In the evening we will sit down at one of the restaurants in town and go over the journey ahead and pack our backpacks.
Night will be spent in Zermatt.
Day 2: Breithorn 4160m and Pollux 4089m
Early morning we take the gondola up to Klein Matterhorn were our journey starts. We hike over the glacier plateau and make our way the steep snow slopes to our first 4000m summit, Breithorn 4160m. Once back at the plateau we traverse east and make our way up to Pollux 4089m where we climb snow ridges and scramble on easy and expose rock. Having two 4000m summits in the bag we make our way down to the Ayas hut where we spend the night.
Ascent: 790m
Distance: 9km
Day 3: Castor 4225m
With an early start we head up the glacier towards Castor 4225m. We might have to climb steep snow and a bit of ice using our front points and one ice axe but only for short sections. The summit ridge offers the ultimate alpine experience when traversing the sharp and expose snow ridge. We make our way to Felikjoch and all the way down to our next hut, Quintino Sella, where we spend the night.
Ascent: 870m
Distance: 6km
Day 4: Naso del Lysskamm 4272m and Vincent Pyramid 4215m (3905 m)
The first big day of the tour. We should now be better acclimatised to the altitude. We continue our travers to the east crossing under the majestic Lysskamm. A short section of steep snow climbing brings us up to Naso del Lysskamm. We then traverse across the glacier and make our way up to the summit of Vincent Pyramid 4215m. We spend the night in the heartwarming hospitality of the Gnifetti hut where you will probably have the best mountain hut dinner you can find in the alps.
Ascent: 1000m
Distance: 8.8km
Day 5: Peak bagging day
We have an early breakfast and start in the dark for this big day. Today is uphill all day where we summit the following 4000m summits: Corno Nero 4321n, Ludwigshöhe 4343m, Parrotspitze 4434m, Zumsteinspitze 4563m and Signalkuppe 4554m. This day will test all of our abilities on steep snow, narrow ridges and rock scrambling. We will spend the night in the Margherita hut, the highest hut in the alps sitting at 4554m. Getting a good night sleep at this altitude can be challenging.
Ascent: 1000m
Distance: 6km
Day 6: Signalkuppe – Zermatt
Most of this day is downhill. We depart early from the Margherita hut in firm snow conditions. With a spectacular views we navigate the crevasses coming down the Grenz glacier with views over Zermatt. When we arrive at the Gornergrat we have the last uphill of the tour, just before we arrive at the mountain tram at Rotenboden. The train will take us back to Zermatt.
Celebrtion is well deserved and we have our final dinner together in Zermatt.
Ascent: 500m
Descent: 2180m
Distance: 14km
Day 7: Travel day to Iceland
This day is a travel day back to Iceland where we transfer with the train back to Zurich airport.
It is possible to extend this tour by adding Matterhorn extension to the program. It is the perfect addition if guests are fit and up to the task to use the opportunity while fully acclimatised to climb this iconic peak towering over Zermatt.
If you add this to your trip you need to make sure you book accommodation in Zermatt on day 7 and day 9
Matterhorn Extension
Day 8: Matterhorn extension – Hut approach
Participants will use day 7 of the Spagetti Traverse as a rest day.
We will take the ski lift up to Schwartzsee and hike up to the Hörnlihutte. The hike takes about 2.5 hours. The guide will go over the plan for the summit day and we go early to bed.
Day 9: Matterhorn extension – Summit day
After a quick breakfast we gear up and head out. The first hours is with headlamps in the dark as we ascend the rock ribs above the hut. As we move higher on the mountain it gets steeper. The steepest sections are equipped with thick ropes that you can hold on to and pull your way over the difficult sections. The route usually has little snow on it, apart the summit ridge where crampons are used.
This is a demanding day and takes about 8 hours of non-stop climbing. The time to the summit is about 4 hours and it takes the same time to climb back down to the hut. It is important that guests are well prepared and in good fitness.
From the summit we make our way back, past the hut and take the lift back to Zermatt where we spend the last night.
Day 10: Matterhorn extension – Travel day
Travelday back to Iceland. We take an early train back to Zurich ariport.
Participants need to have insurance for search & rescue in mountainous terrain. Rescue teams in Europe reserve the right to charge their clients for the full cost of rescue and the use of helicopters, when needed. We also recommend that participants have at least a standard personal travel insurance on all our tours.
Asgard Beyond reserves the right to change the program of the trip with regard to weather and conditions at any time. This will be done with the safety of guests in mind and to ensure the best possible experience on the trip. If the travel arrangements change significantly, extra costs may follow.
Technical equipment
- Harness
- Helmet
- Crampons
- 2x locking carabiners
- Ice axe
- Mountain boots
- Backpack 35-40L
- Hiking poles (optional)
Clothing
- Goretex jacket
- Goretex pants
- Soft shell jacket (optional, some choose to use the gore tex only)
- Soft shell pants (optional, some choose to use the gore tex only)
- Fiber or down jacket
- Fleece jacket/sweater
- Lightweight gloves
- Warmer gloves
- Hat
- Buff (neck or face protection)
- Bandana (for warmer days)
- First layer, long sleeve (wool or synthetic)
- First layer pants (wool or synthetic)
- Sunhat
- Socks
This and that
- Sunglasses (cat 4)
- Ski goggles (with low light lens)
- Sunscreen SPF 50
- Lip balm with sun protection
- Headlamp
- Water bottle 1L
- Thermos 0,5L (optional)
- Blisterkit/teip
- Power bank and chargers
- Snacks for the days(nuts, power bars…)
For the Hut
- Extra socks
- T-shirt (optional for huts)
- Earplugs
- Sleeping bag liner
- Cash for huts (EUR)
- Toothbrush, soap etc…
What's included
- Preparation meeting with the guide prior departure in Iceland
- 4 nights in mountain huts with breakfast and dinner
- Guide's expenses
- Icelandic IFMGA mountain guide
What's notincluded
- Airtravel to and from Iceland
- Train Zurich-Zermatt-Zurich
- Hotels and dinner in Zermatt
- Ski lifts and trains
- Lunch and drinks in the huts
- Night at Hörnlihut (Matterhorn extension)
- Additional travels and/or accommodation incase itinerary changes significantly due to weather or conditions
- Travel and accident insurance
Do you have any questions?
Below are answers to some of the questions we get regarding the tour. If you do not find the answer do not hesitate to contact us
-
Do you offer pickup service?
In general we only meet our guests on location, or car pool from a central location in Reykjvaík. However, if you do not have your own car and can not meet us on location please get in touch.
-
What happens to my booking if the weather or conditions are bad?
In case it is not possible to operate the tour due to weather or conditions we try the following things:
Move the tour to a different date if that works for you, change to a different activity if you agree on that. If none of the above is possible and we have to cancel the tour due to weather or poor conditions, we will refund you the tour.
-
In how much advance should I book my tour with you?
The short answer is: the longer the better. We have limited resources of guides and sometimes we are fully booked.
For less technical tours like Glacier hiking, Glacier hiking and ice climbing, and alpine trekking tours we can usually accommodate you with a short notice. For more technical tours like Waterfall ice climbing, Rock climbing and alpine tours longer advance is better to secure a spot.
Short notice can be 24 hours before departure and longer notice is at least two weeks before. -
What is the best season for the activities you offer?
The best season depends on what activity you choose. The appropriate season is stated at the top of each tour. To break it down:
Glacier hikes and glacier ice climbing
Available the whole year. This activity is not dependant on weather or conditions. The only time we have to cancel or post pone these activities is when the weather is really bad.Rock climbing and alpine rock climbing
Rock climbing is a summer activity available May-October. This activity is highly weather dependant and not possible when the rock is wet or when it is raining. If you are interested in rock climbing outside of the season, it is possible if we have really good weather days. Please contact us for further information.Ski touring
The best ski touring in the south-west part of Iceland is usually around spring time. The ski touring season is usually between Feb-May, however it is possible to ski outside the season if conditions are good or we ski the glaciers like on the tour “Ski touring Snæfellsjökull”. If you are interested to ski outside of the season please contact us for further information.Waterfall ice climbing and alpine winter climbing
The main season is from late November to late March. Iceland has a maritime climate and temperatures fluctuate through out the season making this activity highly subject to weather and conditions. In case we have poor conditions for ice climbing we can always substitute the waterfall ice climbing with ice climbing on the glacier.Alpine trekking
Snæfellsjökull can be climbed almost the whole year, appart from the darkest month of the year, December.
Other bigger mountains like Eyjafjallajökull and Hvannadalshnúkur, the highest summit of Iceland, have the best conditions from early spring to late summer. -
Do I need any prior experience to participate in your tours?
Since all of our tours are private we are able to adjust the difficulty and and experience level needed for each tour. However, for some of your tours it is advisable that you have have some background in the activity:
Glacier hiking and glacier ice climbing
There is no prior experience needed for those toursWaterfall ice climbing
It is possible to try waterfall ice climbing if you do not have any prior ice climbing experience. We would choose an easy climbing route with easy access. If you have never done ice climbing before it is worth looking into our Ice climbing and glacier hiking tour on Sólheimajökull.Ski touring
For our ski touring tours you have to be a competent off-piste skier and able to ski down in various conditions.Rock and alpine climbing
No prior experience is needed for single pitch rock climbing. For multi pitch climbing it is advisable that your climbing level is at 5.7-5.8 and you have to know how to belay a lead climber. -
Can I request a tour that is not on your website?
Yes, without a doubt. Private guiding is what Asgard is all about and if you can dream your adventure, we can make it happen. If you do not find your perfect adventure on our website, do not hesitate to get in touch at [email protected]!
Examples of private tours we have done in the past:
- Expedition planning and support
- Cross country ski touring
- Expedition and polar training
- Private hiking, day tours and multi-day tours
- Location management and safety on film projects
- Private tours for photographers
- Alpine trekking on glaciated summits
- Multiday tours in Greenland